Holy Bolognese Batman!

I am inclined to tinker with this recipe, but as of now it has met with Tyler's approval. So perhaps I will leave well enough alone. It takes four hours on the stove - not a pretty thing if the house is hot or you have errands to run. But if like us it is still only 50F outside and you don't mind forgetting you left your gas stove running while at dinner to celebrate your anniversay, it should be a breeze.

2 Tbs. butter

3 Tbs. evoo

2 Tbs. yellow onion small dice

2Tbs. carrot small dice

2 Tbs. celery small dice

3/4 pound ground beef

1 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup milk

1/8 tsp. nutmeg, freshly ground

2 cups tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

(or canned and crushed like I used)

1 tsp. salt

1/4 - 1/2 tsp. freshly cracked pepper

In a pot - much like a soup pot, or equally large and wide but with shorter sides - melt the butter and heat the oil at medium high. Dice your onion and add to the cooking fat and cook until translucent. Meanwhile dice your celery and carrots. Add them to the pot once your onion is cooked and give them 2 or 3 minutes to soften. Add the 3/4 pound ground beef to the pot and begin breaking it up. My recipe recommended using a fork which was so "Susy Homemaker" but it did work fairly well. Once the beef begins to color but before it has cooked through add the wine to the pot. Allow the wine to cook off almost entirely, stir occassionally. Next add the milk and the grating of nutmeg. Allow the milk to cook off almost entirely as well also stirring occassionally. To this add the tomatoes and reduce the heat to a whisper so the whole sauce only bubbles intermittently - like you imagine a steaming swamp might do. Let it cook like this uncovered for three hours - feel free to go out to dinner. If you are home stir the sauce a few times while it cooks. Before serving taste for seasoning and add the s & p.

I doubled this recipe and ended up with enough for 8 servings. Half of it went into a container in the freezer for a night I don't feel up to cooking. The other half was heated and served on Campanelle pasta. Any shape that has holes, ripples or crevices would be ideal for this sauce as it can glom onto the meaty yummy bits.

This is where I tell you that the recipe comes from Marcella Hazan. So that you don't think I was clever enough to think it all up. I would like to alter it and reduce the amount of wine added to the recipe and perhaps swap the celery for fennel and the beef for sausage ala a meat sauce I had when we went out for dinner Friday night.

Nigella's Pea Risotto

We are forever stealing risotto recipes from Nigella Lawson's How to Eat cookbook, but this one is so good we can't help it. Unfortunately, I bought the book while living in England so none of the metric measurements have been translated into the more familiar American cups and ounces. Normally I would do that for you before posting the recipe online, but today I say "It's time for you to buy a scale!" A simple, cheap, mechanical version will suffice. You should be able to find them at any vast box selling merchandise.

Pea Risotto

serves 2
60 g unsalted butter
2 liters stock (chicken or vegetable)
150 g frozen peas
one small onion, small dice
2 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
200 g Arborio rice
80 ml dry white wine
2 Tbs. parmesan
nutmeg*

In a small saucepan melt 1/3 of the butter on low heat. To this add the peas and cook for 2 minutes. Meanwhile warm the stock on a neighboring burner and hold it there. Add 2 ladelfuls of stock to the peas, cover, and cook for five more minutes. In a large skillet, melt another 1/3 of the butter. To this add the evoo and onion. When the onion is translucent, add the uncooked arborio rice and stir to cover the grains in fat. They will glisten and become clear at their tips. Add the wine to the pan and allow it to bubble away. When the rice is almost dry (take care that it isn't sticking to the skillet) begin adding the warmed stock a ladleful at a time allowing the rice to absorb the liquid between additions. You will continue in this way until all the stock has been added stirring the risotto from time to time to ensure it cooks evenly.
Now for the peas that have been patiently waiting. Ladle half of the mixture into a blender and pulse until it is pureed. Add this puree and the whole peas with their cooking liquid to the risotto near the end of its cooking time.
When all the stock has been added taste the risotto for doneness. It should have the consistency of al dente pasta. If it is still undercooked, make more stock and continue adding it. If it is finished, go ahead and add the parmesan cheese, the last 1/3 of the butter, and a quick grating of nutmeg. Viola!

*Nutmeg is one of those spices like pepper that loses much of its impact in powdered form. Buy it whole and grate it when needed. Another tip, it can usually be found more cheaply packaged in bags alongside the plethora of Mexican goods sold in most southwest stores. However, it needs to be stored in a glass container at home to protect and preserve it.

Roasted Red Pepper Alfredo

Here is something we tried the other night when we were bereft of groceries and willpower, but not inspiration...no! Tyler wanted Fettucini Alfredo with roasted red pepper, and we thought, why not puree the pepper and fold it into the sauce? We were pleasantly surprised.

1 red pepper, roasted, skinned, seeded and pureed

1 cup heavy cream

2 Tbs. butter, unsalted

1/2 cup parmesan

1/2 pound fettucini

salt and pepper

variations

add fresh basil

try red chili flakes for a spicy dimension

add shrimp to the pasta

use fusilli instead of fettucini

or maybe cheese ravioli...

Under the broiler in the oven, roast the red pepper turning occassionally until the skin is burnt and blistered. Remove pepper from the oven and either place it in a sealed ziploc bag or simply in a bowl with a kitchen towel over top. This will trap the steam and encourage the skin to separate from the pepper. Leave it to steam for five minutes, then under running water (some would argue that this sacrifices flavour but I say, "boo!") slough off the skin, remove the stem and seeds. Puree the pepper in a Cuisinart with 1/2 Tbs. of butter. Begin boiling water for the pasta in a large pot, when at a boil add a generous amount of salt to the water. (Marcella Hazan says pasta should be cooked in water that tastes like the sea, she's right.) Add the pasta to the sea water. In a large saucepan warm the remaining butter and cream on medium heat. You are looking for the cream to lose a little moisture and thicken slightly. Fold in the red pepper puree, and parmesan cheese. Once your pasta is al dente add it to the saucepan as well and toss it to coat it in the sauce. Voila!

Tuscan Chickpea Soup

It really can't get any easier than this. This soup takes about 30 minutes from start to eating. It has relatively few ingredients so the focus is on buying the best you can afford.

Tuscan Chickpea Soup
1/4 oz. pancetta, medium dice
2 Tbs. evoo
1 onion, peeled, medium dice
4 cloves garlic, peeled, rough chopped
2 celery stalks, medium dice
6 sage leaves
1 quart chicken stock
1 14oz. can diced tomatoes
1 14oz. can chickpeas/garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
salt and pepper
really good olive oil (not meant for cooking but for eating raw)

*Notes on substitution: You can substitute bacon, but pancetta is the best option. It is unsmoked, and usually of a higher quality that most supermarket bacon. The pancetta will render lots of gorgeous fat into the soup that gives it a wonderful mouth feel.
Strangely, pancetta and sage seem to be seasonal - at least in Arizona. I made this soup last night and found it impossible to locate either item at the local shops. I did use bacon (shock, horror); and found that rosemary made a good change from the sage. However, because rosemary is stronger in flavour I only used three 3 inch clippings from our plant in the backyard.

On medium heat warm the evoo (extra virgin olive oil) add the pancetta and render the fat before adding the celery, garlic, sage and onion. Allow the veg to sweat and soften for about 15 minutes. They will color a little, but I found this is a lot of food for my stockpot and the crowding lowered the temperature and let the vegetables get steamy. This is okay.
Add the tomatoes, chickpeas, and chicken stock to the soup and allow everything to heat through - about 10 minutes. Viola! (I said it was easy.) Season to taste with kosher salt and please, freshy cracked pepper.
Eat the soup with crusty bread and a good drizzle of the olive oil overtop. We also sprinkled our bowls with strips of proscuitto we had languishing in our refrigerator.

Mushroom Risotto

I was speaking to Nina last night and she was somehow dubious that dried mushrooms and rice could approximate anything close to Italian food. So I told her I would send her the recipe. Before I post it a few words on risotto. Risotto is actually short grain Italian rice that is cooked by slowly adding liquid rather than the common drown and boil of most rices. There are three kinds of risotto - arborio, carnaroli, and vialone nano. If you are shopping at a regular grocery store you will most likely only encounter arborio rice which is fine. But if you really get into cooking and eating risottos like I have you will want to seek out the other grains at specialty food shops they differ from arborio and each other in firmness and creaminess.

Nigella Lawson's Mushroom Risotto

4 tbs. unsalted butter

2 Tbs. evoo

1/2 an onion, small dice

15 g dried porcini mushrooms (about 3/4 cup)

3/4 cup hot water for soaking mushrooms

1 cup arborio rice

3 cups chicken stock

2 to 3 Tbs. grated parmesan

a handful of Italian parsley rough chopped for garnishing

black pepper

Soak the mushrooms in water for 20 minutes or so. I have never actually sprung for porcinis because they are so expensive (and I am so cheap). I use dried shiitakes that I buy from the Asian grocer for a song. Make your stock and keep it warm on a neighboring burner to this add your leftover mushroom soaking water. Melt 2 Tbs. butter in a large skillet. Add the evoo and the onions and on medium heat saute until translucent. Add the rough chopped mushrooms and the uncooked rice. Stir the rice in the fat until the grains are glistening and become translucent at the tips. To this add a ladel or two of stock and allow the rice to absorb it before adding more. This is how the rice is cooked, slowly, adding moisture a bit at time. The whole process takes about twenty minutes. Be sure to occasionally stir the risotto so that it cooks evenly. When the stock is almost gone taste the risotto for doneness. It should be firm like al dente pasta. You will finish the risotto with the remaining 2 Tbs. of butter and the grated parmesan cheese. Add black pepper as needed for flavour and garnish with fresh Italian parsley.

This portion only serves Tyler and I, but we tend to eat A LOT of risotto and nothing else as a side dish.

Tomato and Cream sauce

I made this sauce last night to go with homemade spinach and ricotta gnocchi. They were awesome - an attempt to use up wilting spinach as well as containers of ricotta cheese lurking in our fridge from previous endeavours into baked ziti. The recipe is from Marcella Hazan's Classic Italian Cooking. It was easy, tasty, and the leftovers can be frozen for those nights when cooking dinner is a desperate task.

1/4 pound unsalted butter, that's one stick, typically 4 ounces. (I know, don't tell my husband.)

3 Tbs. finely chopped onion

1 stalk finely chopped celery

2 carrots, finely chopped

1 28oz can of diced or crushed tomatoes

1/2 cup heavy cream

Salt and pepper

Combine all the ingredients except the cream in a large skillet and cook at the slightest simmer for one hour. Remove from the heat and process in a Cuisanart. Be sure to turn off the machine before the sauce looses all of its texture. Return the sauce to the heat on low and add the cream, taste and adjust seasoning.

The gnocchi recipe was also from her book, and if anybody is interested, I will post that as well. Otherwise I would recommend a tubular pasta for this sauce like penne, or perhaps a broad, flat, noodle like fettucini; but I am sure I am breaking some solemn Italian custom of shape and sauce matching...

My Mother's Chicken Cacciatore

That she found in Craig Claiborne's New York Times Cookbook...

This is not only my favourite Cacciatore recipe, it is my favourite way to eat chicken and spaghetti; even though Tyler makes a killer chicken parmesan. It is my mother's secret weapon in her culinary arsenal; and she would often entertain with it. Inevitably, she would rather proudly confide to her guests that the recipe contained vast quantities of alcohol. But don't worry, it boils off during cooking; and you can omit it; but then...

4 pounds chicken, bone in thighs and breasts

1/4 to 1/2 cup all purpose flour for dredging

1/4 cup evoo

2 tbs. shallots, finely chopped

2 cloves of garlic

1/4 cup tomato paste

1/2 cup dry white wine, my mother always used Chablis

1 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. freshly cracked black pepper

3/4 cup chicken stock

1/2 of a bay leaf

1/8 tsp. dried thyme OR 3 sprigs fresh

1/8 tsp. dried marjoram

1/2 to 1 cup mushrooms, preferably crimini or baby bellas

1/4 cup Brandy

Begin by dredging the chicken in flour and setting it aside. Pour the olive oil into a skillet large enough to accomodate the chicken - you should also have a lid for this skillet. Heat the oil to medium high and begin by browning the chicken. Remove the chicken and add the mushrooms. Again, the mushrooms should be added on a high heat for a good carmelization, so if you don't hear a good sizzle when they are added, raise your temperature. You may also need to add more oil as the mushrooms love to soak it up. When the mushrooms are carmelized with the heat at medium to medium high add the onions and sweat until translucent. Add the garlic at this point. I usually don't chop garlic because it will burn more easily if it is smaller - and burnt garlic is terribly bitter. I will peel the garlic and then crush it under the side of my knife so it breaks open. Once you smell the garlic, add the tomato paste and let it cook for thirty seconds to a minute. At this point add the wine and scrape up the brown bits clinging to the pan. The wine will evaporate. When there seems to be only one or two tablespoons remaining add the rest of the ingredients, return the chicken to the pan, bring the pan to a slow simmer, cover and cook until the chicken is finished 45 to 60 minutes. I prefer a runny sauce and have, at times, cooked the cacciatore with too much heat thereby thickening the sauce. If this happens you can add water or chicken broth, but taste the sauce for saltiness and adjust. This recipe is best served alongside spaghetti dressed with olive oil.

My brother, Sean, recommended I make wine parings for the recipes I list, but I have to admit that he is much better at something like that than I am. Perhaps he'll contribute and I can post it here. But for now I'll tell you that we had a Toad Hollow, Paso Robles red table wine with our dinner that we enjoyed very much.

Shrimp Fettucini with Pesto and Asparagus

This was a foray on our own last night with a little help from Marcella Hazan's Classic Italian Cookbook. I used her recipe for blender pesto and omitted the pine nuts and romano cheese simply because we didn't have either on hand.

Serves 2

Pesto

2 cups basil leaves

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 cup good evoo

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan

3 Tbs. room temperature butter

Combine ingredients in a blender and pulse. The sides may have to be scraped down occassionally. Remove pesto from blender and beat cheese in by hand. Add butter. Place pesto in fridge until ready to use.

Fettucini

1 bunch asparagus

10 pieces 26 count shrimp, deveined, shell on

2 cloves garlic peeled and minced

2 Tbs. butter

1 bag fettucini

2 Tbs. salt

I keep the asparagus in their rubberbanded bundle and chop off the tough ends. Cut the remaining stalks into three even pieces. Put a large pot with enough water to accomodate the asparagus on the stove to boil. When boiling add the asparagus and cook them until they are tender, about 10 minutes depending on the size of your vegetables. I drain the asparagus and save the heated water to cook the fettucini returning it immediately to the stove on high. Once it is at a rolling boil add the 2 Tbs. salt and enough fettucini for two people. In a medium sized skillet melt 1 Tbs. butter over low heat. Once melted increase the heat to medium low. Add the garlic, cook until you can smell it then add the shrimp. They will take about five minutes to cook through. Do not overcook them or they will be tough. Remove the shrimp from the pan and put in the asparagus with the last Tbs. of butter. Allow them to warm on low heat while the pasta finishes cooking. I generally drain the pasta then return it to low heat in the same pot in which it cooked. To this add the shrimp, asparagus, and pesto and toss until completely combined.