Tagliatelle with Caramelized Fennel

Fennel - one of those vegetables that is often looked over at the grocery store or market, but has such a distinctive and sophisticated taste that it can carry a whole dish. This recipe is ridiculously simple, yet feels elegant - the fennel is given a deep, sweet flavor that mingles with the pasta and cheese and is accented with the zip of lemon and the herbal flavor of the fennel greens. My husband and I made this for the first time a couple of weeks ago, using a gift certificate to a local upscale "fine food" market to buy some bright orange dried tagliatelle. Tagliatelle is an Italian egg noodle; there are plenty of good dried versions out there, or, if you are feeling ambitious, you can make your own fresh. You could also substitute fettuccine. The recipe is from Deborah Madison's fantastic book Local Flavors: Cooking and Eating from America's Farmer's Markets, which I acquired in Iowa City, inspired by the amazing summer produce. Enjoy!

2 or 3 large fennel bulbs, including the greens
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 garlic clove, minced
3/4 to 1 lb. tagliatelle
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1. Peel or discard, if badly bruised, the tough outer layers of the fennel, then quarter the bulbs, setting aside the greens, and slice thinly. (The core will cook to tenderness.) Heat a large pot of water for the pasta.

2. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter with the olive oil in a wide skillet. Add the fennel and saute' over high heat, stirring occasionally, until browned in places, 7 to 10 minutes. Season with 1 teaspoon salt. Toss with the lemon juice, then add 1 cup water. Reduce the heat and cook, covered, until the liquid has evaporated. Add another 1/2 cup water and continue cooking in this fashion until the fennel is very soft and deep gold in color, about 25 minutes in all. Season with pepper. Chop a handful of fennel greens - enough to make about 1/3 cup - with the garlic and lemon zest and set aside.

3. Add salt and the pasta to the boiling water and cook until the pasta is al dente. Scoop it out and add it to the pan with the fennel and the chopped greens. Taste for salt and season with pepper. Serve with the cheese, finely grated or thinly sliced over the top.